Monday, January 24, 2011

Swiss Chocolate

So it has now been over a week since I last wrote on here...again, I apologize.
We left Amsterdam the same way we came in- exhausted and clueless. We did not have exact plans for the next four days before we had to be in Bern, Switzerland. So just as before, we winged it!
Skip's family friends invited us to stay with them in a small town in Germany, just over the Dutch border. They welcomed us with open arms. Mr. Barthel works for the Canadian military, so they live right near a NATO air base and have for the past year and a half. They cooked us some amazing meals, and introduced us to some more tasty German beers. It was nice to be with some fellow Canadians and to hear stories about what it has been like for them to live in this small German town.

We ended up staying with them until the Wednesday. They were just so hospitable and sweet that we didn't want to leave! We borrowed their bikes and used them to tour around their town, stopping for some German pastries along the way. On the Tuesday night we went to check out a trivia night at a bar in Maastricht. BEAUTIFUL CITY. Even at night you could tell just how stunning it was. Skip and I decided then and there that we are returning for a longer and more proper visit. (The German's have this huge celebration called Carnival during the months of February and March, the biggest weekend is at the beginning of March. Apparently it's just like Halloween, but ten times crazier...Skip and I are coming back for it. Haha) Wednesday night we flew from Dusseldorf to Basel, just outside of Switzerland. Unfortunately, we decided to sleep in the airport that night (No sense in booking a hotel for 5 hours. Besides, this is a must for backpackers at some point on their travels...)

Waking up to the bright lights of airline check-in desks, we quickly jumped on a bus to the train station to go to Bern, our final destination. In a daze (neither of us had properly slept) we saw the gorgeous city of Bern through the tram windows. Not really appreciating it at the time, we immediately checked in to our hotel. We didn't make it past the bed once we stepped in to our room.
The next few days were going to be tiring-- we are in Bern now for 11 days to work at the ISU European Figure Skating Championships!

Sunday, January 16, 2011

Vee are in Nederland!

We rolled into the Amsterdam Centraal Station just as the sun was setting.
The lights began to illuminate the many canals that weaved in and out of the streets everywhere we walked. Jumping on a cable car, we easily found our hostel, Annemarie located in the Museum Square. We had to be constantly aware while walking, because cyclists were coming at us from every which way. They were everywhere! Tired, we had a fairly uneventful night, eager to wake up the next day and begin our tour of this beautiful city.

We began by meeting up with a free walking tour in the central square opposite the Palace. (Which unfortunately was under renovations) Our guide brought us through the Red Light District (definitely the weirdest place I have ever been, so curious!) to Rembrandt's house, the Jewish Quarter,  the main fish Market, and to the old Dutch East India Trading Company buildings. It was a great way to get everything in! On our own, we wandered to Anne Frank's house (the line however, was really long, so we decided to skip going in, and leave it for another time!) Seeing the house was enough for me.
This extremely tolerant world class city is definitely unlike any other place on earth. If you cannot be free to do whatever you want here, then you cannot do it anywhere!
The contrast of the more modern legal prostitution and marijuana with the old and historic canals, architecture, and museums is mind boggling. With coffee shops on every street corner, the aroma of thrill and rebellion is constantly permeating the air. It is easy to see why this city is a favorite of many!
For our second and final night, we joined up with a pub crawl. We ended up meeting some crazy Brits and Australians (Canadians, Brits, the Irish, and Aussies always seem to bond, wherever you go!) and we saw some really interesting parts of Amsterdam under the lights.

Our next stop is back over the German border to a small city outside of Cologne.
Bring on the weiner schnitzel and beer!

Saturday, January 15, 2011

We spent a day in Brussels on Thursday, soaking up some of the sights. It is definitely a beautiful city, but after being spoiled in Brugge, we were not as impressed. We toured around for a few hours though, ducking in to a cafe to indulge in the cities finest-- Belgian waffles. Yummm.
We then searched for what some people consider to be the symbol of Brussels, Manneken Pis. A very, very small statue of a little boy peeing in to a fountain. That is all. It is supposedly the worlds most disappointing tourist attraction...it definitely holds up to that.
For dinner, more of Diana's relatives took us in, and cooked us a wonderful meal. Her relatives, Els and Peter, were so sweet and welcoming, it was nice to have a home cooked meal. We ended up staying there for the night.
Diana left us early the next morning, embarking on her own tour of Europe, which was beginning in London. We said our goodbyes, and then Skip and I had to figure out where we were setting off to. We had no idea....but that was the excitement of it!
We eenie meanie minie moed, and chose Amsterdam for the weekend!
Off we go!!!

Wednesday, January 12, 2011

Waffles, Chocolate and BEER!

The rain has not stopped all day. We persevered and trudged around the city anyways though, ducking in to 13 century old churches when we could. Gilbert guided us around by foot this time, with his wife Dina. They took us through the old hospital, to the first ever stock market, and to city hall.
This is a city that is so beautiful that it truly does not matter if it's a sunny day, even in the rain we could not get enough of the incredible buildings. The canal weaves in and out of the buildings, all around the city, you can just imagine what this place looks like in the summer time. Diana, Skip and I already are making plans to return in the warmer weather... Dina and Gilbert are more than happy to have us back.
We ended our private guided tour with a Belgian beer, saying a final farewell to our lovely guides. I tried one that was brewed in Gilbert's hometown called Rodenbach. And I am not just saying this because it is to be expected, but it was one of the best beers I have ever tried.
On our way back to the B and B we stopped at a chocolate shop, finally giving in. I cannot stop eating them, chocolates and waffles... seriously it's a problem. We are going beer tasting tonight. Dangerous...

Flemish Tea Time

Early in the morning of our first full day in Brugge, Diana and I walked to the small bakery around the corner from our B and B, to grab a baguette for our breakfast. We ate like kings.
Then at 9:30 on the dot, Diana's grandmothers brother, Gilbert (pronounce ee-bear) came to collect us for a full day of site seeing and socializing. He was the cutest and most interesting man- he had been a tour guide for the city of Brugge for the past few years, so he knew his stuff!
Since it was raining, we were touring around in his car. Unfortunately, the tour started off with a little fender bender, (their fault, not ours!) so we were delayed for a bit. The fact though that Skip and I, who were sitting in the back, were more frightened and shook up than this 80-year-old man was shocking. He was as cool and collected as can be, making sure we were alright before settling things with the careless driver. Now this man is not like normal 80-year-olds. He has run a total of 45-50 marathons throughout Belgium, (his last one being when he was 65) rode his bike from Belgium to Portugal on a pilgrimage by himself, still now plays volleyball during the week and tries to run two to three times a week. Incredible. Europeans do it right, I'm telling you. His broken English throughout the day was easy enough to understand, especially when he through hand signals and gestures in to the mix.
We made a stop for lunch at his home, where his sweet wife made us a huge meal. We met his horse, and explored a church near his home town that had been built in 1240. Amazing.

Our next stop was at Diana's grandfathers brother's home. Arseen was a loud and enthusiastic Belgian, who loved to joke around and laugh with us. He took us to meet more of Diana's family, where we had coffee and cake learning more about the history and culture of Belgium. The stories they told (some in Flemish, some in English, some even in Dutch or German) were extremely entertaining, with some piano playing and a cross-eyed dog named Milo thrown in to the mix. Chocolates were passed around repeatedly (deadly!) When it was time for dinner, we were brought back to Gilbert's home, where his wife made us yet another meal!! The hospitality was never ending...
After a long day, we were deposited back at the B and B for a quiet night in, making yet more plans for the next full day in Brugge!
(We loved this place so much that we extended our stay until Thursday, where we would then travel to Brussels for a night with more of Diana's family.)

In Brugge

We arrived at the little Bed and Breakfast, which is owned by relatives of Diana, just as the sun was coming up. To say we were exhausted would be an understatement- we were cold, tired and hungry, and just needed a good solid sleep. From what we could see in the dark, the town of Brugge was beautiful. But we all agreed that we needed some shuteye before exploring. So we found our room (it was luxury compared to the hostels we had been staying at, all three of us fit comfortably into a King size bed) and had ourselves a nap.

Waking up around 2 (oops!) we jumped out of bed and quickly showered and dressed, wanting to soak up the last few hours of sunshine here before night fell. This city is incredible. The city center is a world heritage site under the strict protection of UNESCO. The buildings and cobble stoned streets were so quaint and lovely that we walked around with mouths open at the sites. This is also the chocolate capital of the world.....uh oh. You could not walk down one street without passing by AT LEAST three or four chocolateries. There were also many pubs with the words " 200 beers to sample" scribed across the windows...Skip was drooling. We were all in heaven.
It was nighttime before we knew it, so we ventured back to our lovely B and B to make dinner for not just ourselves, but Diana's cousin Coen who was allowing us to stay here free of charge. He was such a nice man, very European and very eager to help us out as we toured his wonderful city. (His father was a tour guide, and was picking us up the next morning for a private tour of the city!!)
We sat around the round table, drinking wine and making plans for the next couple of days.
We were very eager to explore.

Danishes, The Little Mermaid, and MORE Danishes

In the city of fairytales thanks to Hans Christian Andersen, we certainly enjoyed every moment. Early in the morning of our first day there, we were joined by another traveller all the way from Canada. Diana Gysbers burst through our hostel room door, flushed and out of breath after making the hike (it wasn't that long, she just was a little lost) from the train station to DanHostel where we were staying.
Now that she was here, another part of our adventure could begin.
For four days, our morning ritual was to meet up with my parents, and grab the most delicious, mouth-watering pastry I have ever tasted, and a coffee. The Danes do Danishes RIGHT. Emily is going to definitely struggle over the next six months because of the temptation to eat every danish in sight.

Our mission this week was to not only see the city of Copenhagen, but to move Em in, and get her organized. Luckily, the language barrier was not a big issue (Danish is one complicated and confusing language!) because every Dane we came in contact with spoke perfect English. (They all have to take English throughout school, it's mandatory.) We had a great time wandering around this beautiful city, exploring around the shopping areas, finding some great buys (Skip found what we now call hooker boots, but they're great haha) and we all gradually helped Emily adjust to her new home. (She was taking language classes every morning, so in the afternoons and evenings she attempted to be our translator, haha)
We met with a Swedish man, Pere, (?) who is one of Dad's business friends, and we went out and had a great lunch with him, finding out the true feelings of the Swedes towards the Danes, and also learning some new words for our Danish vocabulary.
Sadly, we had to say our goodbyes to Mum and Dad on the Saturday, it was time for them to return home. There were definitely tears...they were leaving behind Em and I, so it was a very difficult morning. I know though that I will be seeing them soon, hopefully over on this side for some adventures around Europe, but we will see. Love you guys and thank you so much again for everything!
On our final day, we were joined by two Kiwi's who had been traveling each on their own, and wanted to come see the sights with us. We planned to make the walk to the Danish palace, then the infamous Little Mermaid, and then finally to this boarder town of Christiana. It was a beautiful day, which made pictures that much nicer! We made it to the palace just in time to see the changing of the guard which was neat to see in Denmark, instead of the usual English changing of the guard in front of Buckingham. Everyone was so friendly, with the police even coming up to us and making sure we were enjoying ourselves.
Then we moved on to the statue. Skip was beside herself with glee as we walked closer and closer to the harbor that was home to the famous fairytale character. We took a bunch of photos of the group with her, then some with just Skip and her haha, they had to have a moment. (This is Skip's favorite Disney movie of all time.)
There she is!!!

We then ventured in to Freetown Christiana, after taking a water taxi across the channel to this different and mysterious part of Copenhagen. This area was an old military base during WWII, but at the end of the war was abandoned, and civilians in surrounding neighborhoods began moving in to the abandoned buildings. The settlement began using their own laws and governing, independent from the Danish government. It began to be seen as a commune, in 1971 was created as a "free" space for hippies and rebels alike. There is no tourist accomodation here, and it is very hard to find housing for outsiders. It was really eerie being in there, with rundown buildings and graffiti everywhere, but luckily we were with the two guys. I would definitely recommend going here if you are ever in Copenhagen, just because there is no place like it in the world. For sure an experience!

It was then time for myself, Diana, and Skip to board our bus to Brussels. Emily was less than pleased to see us go. I was a little surprised to see how upset I was to let her go. This was her first time on her own in a foreign country, and I did not want to leave her just yet. However my friends and her both said that it was time to, so we said some very tearful goodbyes, and sent her on her way. I know she is going to have the time of her life here- it's time for her own adventures to begin.

Our overnight bus ride to Brussels (14 hours to be exact) was not as bad as we thought it would be, thank god. At 6am, we rolled into the bus station, grabbing our packs and heading to the train that would bring us to the historic and medieval city of Brugge, where we were staying, our next adventure beginning.

Monday, January 10, 2011

The Fairytale City

Next was a long and tiring trek to Copenhagen, Denmark!

Skip and I awoke at 4am on Wednesday to begin our long journey north. We had to fly to Cologne, Germany first, and then had a 5 hour layover, which was not the most pleasant experience. The two of us ended up camping out near our gate, and sleeping on the benches like the two backpackers we are for a few hours to kill some time.
We landed in Copenhagen around dinner time, and then made our way to our hostel, where we were meeting my parents and Em! I could not get there fast enough! After many hugs and kisses, checking in to the room and a quick change of clothes, we set out to find a restaurant where we could sit and share stories of the past week.
It was great to be with the fam again!!!! We called it a night early after a long travel day. Exploring the magical city of Copenhagen was going to be an adventure...

Dachau

This past week and a half have been an emotional whirlwind for me...which is why I have been neglecting my blog. Let's go back to my last day in Germany.......

After a full nights sleep in our Munich hostel, Skip, Val and I walked to the city center of Munich to meet up with a tour group that was heading to Dachau. The famous concentration camp is located about 40 minutes outside of the city via subway. It was one of the main camps during World War II, if not the most famous for the brutal and horrifying treatment of its prisoners.
Our tour guide was a short Irishman named Kevin, and he warned us that the tour we were about to take was not a pleasant one. I was prepared...or so I thought.
Arriving in the town of Dachau was like rolling in to any other European city. Nothing was different about it. We jumped on a bus that brought us to the gates of the tourist site. Still nothing out of the ordinary...
Walking up to the camp, we see that civilian homes surround it, meaning that there are people out there that have the remnants of a Nazi-run concentration camp in their backyards. Haunting.

We pass through the large gates and walk out to a vast and barren looking field, where the prisoners were forced to stand out in every day twice a day for roll call, no matter the weather conditions. Now on this particular day, the weather was minus 5, but with windchill had to be at least minus 10 below. Imagining how these prisoners had felt in this weather wearing barely scraps of cloth to cover their weak bodies was terrifying. We walked through the barracks where up to 2,000 men would have slept, through the "jail", where disgusting "medical trials" were performed on men who disobeyed the guards, and finally we were shown to the perfectly preserved gas chambers. This is a place that I will never forget. The feeling I had walking through this dark place is something that I hope to never experience again, but is something that everyone needs to experience in their lifetime. Not even the small dog that one tourist brought with him could stand to be in there. You could hear his whimpers echoing off of the cold stone walls throughout the chambers everywhere you went. Not pleasant. But worth it. The German people have worked hard to alter their reputations, but when you visit places such as this it is hard to see them and their German ancestors as anything but monsters.

Wednesday, January 5, 2011

An Austrian New Years!!!!!!!

The best way to ring in the year 2011? In the Austrian Alps, that's where!


We jumped on the train from the Munich central station early Friday morning, and took what was thee most SPECTACULAR train ride through the snowy mountains.  I could have just ridden the train all day, weaving in and out of this stunning scenery!
Instead, we hopped off at St. Anton am Arlberg, a beautiful ski resort that is very well known throughout Europe. We met up with some Queen's friends just in time for apres-ski at the bumpin' bar called Mooserwirt to catch up and start off our New Year's Eve with a couple of brewskies.
We later counted down amongst people from all over the world in the main street of the resort, celebrating and hugging each other as if we were all old friends!
Exploring the next two days was exciting, the shops and chalets with the enormous mountains as a backdrop was so picturesque--we couldn't help but sing the Sound of Music songs as we strolled along.

On our way back to Munich on the Monday, we were graced with yet another thrilling train ride, stopping at a small town called Lindau. Now if you are ever in the area, YOU MUST VISIT THIS PLACE! It is spectacular! Nestled on the borders of Switzerland, Austria, and Germany, it is on a calm lake that reflected the mountains so nicely that you almost could not tell which one was the reflection. Apparently during the summer time the place is just crazy busy with tourists and vacationers, and I can most definitely see why.

Photo of Lindau.